Hi everyone, and welcome. Whether you’re one of our nearest and dearest, or you’ve stumbled across our little blog via the magic of Google, we’re happy you found us!

Our epic 12 month South America itinerary saw us travelling from the sunny city of São Paulo, Brazil, down to Ushuaia at the very bottom of the continent, and back up again, all the way to the Caribbean island of San Andrès off north Colombia. It’s the longest trip we’ve embarked on as a couple, and the hardest yet most enjoyable 12 months of our lives so far.

Travelling through 7 amazing countries, soaking in the new cultures, breath-taking landscapes and unusual culinary delights; we aimed to explore as much as we physically could in just 1 year. Our route was certainly ambitious, and though we’ve extended our trip to almost 13 months, we still found ourselves repeatedly making the tough decision to cull destinations from all across the continent.

Below is a brief summary of each destination we’ve visited so far, and a map of our route for each country.

So if you’re in the process of planning your own amazing South American adventure, be it 1 week, 1 month or even 1 year, we hope you find the below helpful.

12 Month South America Backpacking Itinerary

Brazil – 3 months

3 months backpacking in one country might sound like a long time, but have you ever looked at just how huge Brazil is on a map!? You can fit 35 UKs in Brazil!

As such, we scheduled 8-10 weeks in Brazil, ended up staying just shy of 3 months, and still missed all of northeast Brazil to reach the Amazon on time. You could easily spend a full year just in Brazil, and still be wanting to stay longer.

We certainly kept saying: ‘when we come back’. So hopefully one day, we will.

Our Brazilian Route:

October 9th – January 4th
87 days, just over 12 weeks

Our route through Brazil started in São Paulo in the southwest and ended in Manaus, near the Amazon in the North. For the most part we hugged the coast, except for a couple of inland National Park visits to Foz do Iguaçu, Lençóis and Jalapão.

We chose this route as we felt it allowed us to backtrack as little as possible, except for Rio, which we broke into 3 separate visits, rather than one long city stay. Though it’s gutting to have cut all of northeast Brazil, we are very happy with our final route and the destinations it allowed us to explore.

Anyways, the route we actually took was as follows:

• São Paulo – 5 nights
• Florianópolis – 4 nights
• Foz do Iguaçu – 2 nights
• Santa Teresa, Rio de Janeiro – 7 nights
• Paraty – 7 nights
• Ilha Grande – 5 nights
• Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro – 9 nights
• Arraial do Cabo – 3 nights
• Ipanema, Rio de Janeiro – 5 nights
• Salvador – 4 nights
• Lençóis and Chapada Diamantina National Park – 5 nights
• Salvador – 1 night (there was a traffic accident which delayed our coach, so we missed our flight)
• Palmas – 3 nights
• Jalapão National Park – 5 nights
• Palmas – 1 night
• Recife, Olinda and Porto de Galinhas – 4 nights
• Pipa – 3 nights
• Natal – 5 nights
• Manaus – 2 nights
• Amazon Jungle Tour – 3 nights
• Manaus – 1 night

Including the occasional overnight coach or flight, we spent 87 nights in Brazil.

We coached when possible, but due to sheer distance between some locations we took the following flights:

• Foz do Iguaçu to Rio de Janeiro
• Rio de Janeiro to Salvador
• Salvador to Palmas
• Palmas to Recife
• Natal to Manaus

We also took a ferry from Paraty to Ilha Grande, and then Ilha Grande onto Rio de Janeiro.

São Paulo, Brazil (5 Nights)

Our journey into South America began in Brazil’s largest city São Paulo. This concrete jungle is a cultural and gastronomical hotspot. We spent our days exploring everything! From the many museums and art galleries, to the wildlife rich botanical garden. Or simply wandering the streets enjoying the architecture, street art and some delicious street food, this city has something for everyone.

São Paulo Photo Album

Santa Catarina Island, Florianópolis (4 nights)

For our second stop we swapped the busy city for the pristine beaches and jungle hikes of Florianópolis. Staying in one of our favourite accommodations to date, a hilltop treehouse, visited daily by marmosets and hummingbirds. Even the frequent rain showers couldn’t mar our time here, we were very sad to leave.

Florianópolis Photo Album

Foz do Iguaçu (2 nights)

With 275 separate waterfalls, spanning 1.7miles, the Iguaçu falls are an impressive, genuinely breath-taking natural beauty. We got completely soaked on the lower Brazilian walkways, and immersed in the wildlife and sub-tropical forests of the upper Argentinian trails.

Foz do Iguaçu Photo Album

Santa Teresa, Rio de Janeiro (7 nights)

Santa Teresa won us over with it’s charm. This artistic, bohemian hilltop neighbourhood is bursting with street art, beautiful architecture and elegant mansions. Along it’s narrow winding streets you’d be hard pressed not to find some live music and dancing.

Santa Teresa, Rio de Janeiro Photo Album

Paraty (7 nights)

Oh Paraty. Hidden behind the relentless weeklong rainstorm, we found a charismatic colonial seaside town. The cobblestone streets of the historic centre are adorned with bright, beautiful architecture, cafes and restaurants. Best of all, you can enjoy an afternoon sea kayaking or a hike or 2 in the Atlantic Forest.

Paraty Photo Album

Ilha Grande (5 nights)

We brought the rain with us, yet even the daily downpours didn’t prevent us from getting out and exploring this tropical island paradise. With it’s jungle hikes, pristine beaches and delicious restaurants, what more could you want.

Ilha Grande Photo Album

Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro (9 nights)

Copacabana maybe one of Rio’s liveliest districts, but as a couple who usually tends to avoid the crowds, we still fell deeply in love with this bustling neighbourhood. Located on the famous namesake beach, lined with restaurants and bars, we spent our days relaxing on the sand, swimming in the sea, and hiking in the nearby jungle covered hills; and our evenings sipping cocktails whilst watching the sunset.

Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro Photo Album

Arraial do Cabo (3 nights)

Escaping the city for a long weekend, we headed to the white sand beaches of Arraial do Cabo. Besides the many beaches, we found some good hiking trails, and spotted a whole bale of turtles.

Arraial do Cabo Photo Album

Ipanema, Rio de Janeiro (5 nights)

Back in Rio, (we really fell head-over-heels for the city), we stayed in Rio’s most chic neighbourhood, often referred to as it’s ‘little Paris’, Ipanema. We spent our days, and one night, hiking and simply enjoying the beaches and all the architectural, cultural and culinary delights the district has to offer.

Ipanema, Rio de Janeiro Photo Album

Salvador (4 nights)

Leaving Rio behind, we finally started northwards to the Afro-Brazilian, colonial costal city, Salvador. Between the rain showers, we spent our days wandering the vibrant streets, enjoying the many live performances and learning the dark gritty history of this pastel painted city.

Salvador Photo Album

Lençóis and Chapada Diamantina National Park (5 nights)

If we had to sum up Lençóis with one word it would be ‘Cascadas’ (Waterfalls!). This beautiful national park is a mixture of lush Atlantic forest, and rocky mountainous terrain, full of wildlife, caves, caverns and waterfalls.

Lençóis Photo Album

Palmas (4 nights) and Jalapão National Park (5 nights)

An utterly unique destination located in the heart of Brazil. This national park, including the Cerrado biome, and the Brazilian Savanna, is home to lush tropical vegetation, vibrant sand dunes, deep root covered canyons, spectacular rock formations and the word defying fervedouro springs. It’s not an easy place to reach, but is a must-see for any nature loving traveller, seeking the unusual.

Jalapão National Park Photo Album

Recife, Olinda and Porto de Galinhas (4 nights)

An urban, history filled city. A quaint, colourful, colonial town. And a stunning, very crowded beach, boasting off shore pools heaving with tropical fish.

Recife, Olinda and Porto de Galinhas Photo Album

Pipa (3 nights)

We loved this little laid back, hippy town, with it’s beautiful beaches, sand dunes and wildlife, (we saw dolphins and turtles!). The town, though small has many great restaurants, ice cream parlours and an abundance of hammocks, to simply relax and read the day away.

Pipa and Natal Photo Album

Natal (5 nights)

We soaked up even more sun on the many beautiful beaches of Natal. Famous for it’s towering coastal sand dunes, and the worlds largest cashew tree.

Pipa and Natal Photo Album

Manaus (3 nights)

For us Manaus was a gateway to the Amazon Rainforest. Yet, when not packing or catching up on sleep, we ventured out and found a lively Capital city, with a myriad of great eateries.

Manaus Photo Album

Amazon Rainforest Jungle Tour (3 nights)

What an unforgettable end to 3 months in Brazil. Bursting with wildlife and dense tropical forest, after days spent exploring on foot or by riverboat, we fell asleep listening to the calls of howler monkeys and awoke to the dawn chorus of many tropical birds.

The Amazon Rainforest Photo Album

Argentina, Chile, Patagonia and Rapa Nui (Easter Island) – 4 months

Having rushed our way around Brazil, and finding ourselves exhausted after just 3 months travelling, we decided to take a slower route up through Argentina and Chile. Though extending our planned 3 months to 4, we didn’t regret this decision one iota. The diverse landscapes of these two beautiful countries, and their breath-taking national parks, honestly smashed all our expectations.

Our Route Through Argentina, Chile and Patagonia:

January 4th – April 30th
116 days, just under 4 months

From the tropical Amazon Rainforest of Manaus, Brazil, we flew to Argentina’s bustling cosmopolitan capital Buenos Aires. After a week in the heat of the city, and a daytrip to Uruguay, (taking less than 2 hours by ferry, how could we not), we were excited to fly down to the cooler climates of the southernmost city in the world, also known as ‘the end of the world’, Ushuaia.

Leaving Ushuaia and it’s penguins behind, we started our long journey northwards; travelling up through the stunning Patagonian mountains and forests, to the Martian landscapes of the Atacama desert in northern Chile.

This is where our route starts to get a little more complicated. Apparently the Argentinian/Chilean boarder is the third longest national boarder on Earth. Moreover, Patagonia straddles both countries. As such, we opted to zigzag our way up along ‘the spine’ of South America, crossing back-and-forth between Chile and Argentina; rather than travelling one country then the other. This proved easiest both geographically and in regards to public transport.

Our Final Route:

• Buenos Aires, Argentina – 8 nights
• Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay – day trip
• Ushuaia, Argentina – 11 nights
• Punta Arenas, Chile – 5 nights
• Puerto Natales, Chile – 2 nights
• O Circuit in Torres del Paine National Park, Chile – 7 nights
• Puerto Natales, Chile – 2 nights
• El Calafate, Argentina – 7 nights
• El Chaltén and Mount Fitz Roy, Argentina – 7 nights
• San Carlos de Bariloche, Argentina – 14 nights
• Salta, Argentina – 7 nights
• San Carlos de Bariloche, Argentina – 1 night
• Pucón, Chile – 7 nights
• Valparaíso, Chile – 7 nights
• La Serena, Chile – 5 nights
• Pisco Elqui, Chile – 1 night
• Santiago, Chile – 8 nights
• Rapa Nui (Easter Island), Chile – 7 nights
• San Pedro de Atacama and the Atacama Desert, Chile – 5 nights

Including several overnight journeys, we spent 115 nights in Argentina and Chile. 55 in Argentina, 56 in Chile, and 4 travelling.

As with Brazil, we coached whenever possible. However, after enduring a 25+hour long coach journey (El Chaltén to San Carlos de Bariloche), and given that some flights are close in cost, if not cheaper than coaching, we treated ourselves to the following flights:

• Buenos Aires to Ushuaia
• Bariloche to Salta
• Salta to Bariloche
• Santiago to Rapa Nui
• Rapa Nui to Santiago
• Santiago to Calama, for San Pedro de Atacama

Buenos Aires, Argentina (8 nights)

Buenos Aires has earnt it’s name as the ‘Paris of the South’ and is the birthplace of tango. Full of interesting architecture, cafes, restaurants and green spaces, this politically and historically significant city reminded us of both New York and mainland Europe. Here we fell in love with the Argentinean food, chocolateries, and heladerías, their ice cream shops.

Buenos Aires Photo Album

Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay (day trip)

Less than a 2 hour ferry from Buenos Aires across the Río de La Plata, lies the picturesque old cobblestoned town of Colonia del Sacramento in Uruguay. We spent a day exploring the historic district within the old city walls, and relaxing on one of the rivers beautiful beaches.

Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay Photo Album

Ushuaia, Argentina (11 nights)

If we could have stayed a month in Ushuaia we would have. With a mix of great hikes, good food, penguins, whales and generally just a friendly, inviting atmosphere, Ushuaia is up there with Rio as one of our favourite cities in South America.

Ushuaia Photo Album

Punta Arenas, Chile (5 nights)

Though small and generally just a pitstop for most travellers, Punta Arenas is bursting with unusual museums, wildlife and street art. For those who can afford it (not us sadly), you can spend your days whale watching, and seeing King Penguins.

Punta Arenas Photo Album

Puerto Natales, Chile (4 nights)

We spent most of our time in Puerto Natales preparing for our 8 day hike in Torres del Paine National Park. But when we weren’t packing, we whiled away our time in delicious restaurants and cosy cafes overlooking the Señoret Channel and distant mountain ranges.

Puerto Natales Photo Album

Torres del Paine National Park, Chile (8 nights)

Hiking the O-Circuit around Cordillera del Paine in the Torres del Paine National Park was an unforgettable 8 day experience. The scenery is just spectacular and incredibly diverse.

Over the course of 8 days, we hiked through dense moss covered forests, and snow capped mountain passes. Alongside blue-grey glaciers clinging to the mountainsides; and stood atop the John Gardner Pass taking in the beauty of the Southern Patagonian icefield extending as far as we could see. We rested on the black stone shores of turquoise lakes, often adorned with icebergs. And we hiked up through the valleys in all weathers, often being lifted off our feet by the ferocity of the wind, to the rewarding views of the towering, jagged rock formations, iconic to the region. Words really cannot described how beautiful Torres del Paine is.

Torres del Paine Photo Album

El Calafate, Argentina (7 nights)

El Calafate is a quaint yet touristy city on the shores of Lago Argentino, one of the bluest lakes we have ever seen. It is also close to the edge of the Southern Patagonian ice field. As such, when we weren’t recovering from our Torres del Paine hike, we were exploring the city, in particular it’s many eateries and artisan chocolate shops, and hiking on the Perito Moreno Glacier.

El Calafate Photo Album

El Chaltén and Mount Fitz Roy, Argentina (7 nights)

El Chaltén is a small village nestled in Los Glaciares National Park, with views of the region’s most famous peak Mount Fitz Roy. We spent our days hiking from the village, enjoying the local food and wine, and even managed another 3 day hike. Though the weather was against us for most of this hike, the views were still worth the savage winds, freezing rain and occasional flurry of snow.

El Chaltén and Mount Fitz Roy Photo Album

San Carlos de Bariloche, Argentina (14 nights)

San Carlos de Bariloche nestled in the Andes Mountains, and bordering the Nahuel Huapi National Park, has a very Swiss/German feel with its alpine-style architecture, chalets and chocolate shops. Here we were joined by our good friends Chris and Rosie, and spent our days exploring, hiking and enjoying some very good food and wine. Even after 2 weeks, there are many hiking trails we missed, and I for one hope to come back and do them one day.

San Carlos de Bariloche Photo Album

Salta, Argentina (7 nights)

Though full of interesting architecture, many beautiful churches and Spanish colonial buildings, we found the city of Salta somewhat lacklustre. What sparked our interest and imaginations were exploring the stunning landscapes of the surrounding provinces. With such varying panoramas, from the Great Salt Flats and Rainbow Mountains of Jujuy, to the red rock formations and vineyards of Cafayate, this rugged, cacti strewn corner of Argentina was a stunning swan song for our time in Argentina.

Salta Photo Album

Pucón, Chile (7 nights)

The small town of Pucón in the center of Chile’s Lake District is a hub of outdoor activities. Finding Volcán Villarrica to be on yellow alert due to increased activity, we could no longer hike up and stare into the bubbling, lava spewing crater. We naturally opted for the next best option: a 10,000ft skydive, with a fly over of the volcano crater. We also hiked, mountain biked, and had a well earned rest.

Pucón Photo Album

Valparaíso, Chile (7 nights)

Chile’s port city Valparaíso, is a colourful hilltop metropolis. Finding the national park and sand dunes closed, we spent our days exploring the graffiti covered streets, walking the coast and watching the sea lions. Oh, and enjoying a wine tasting or two.

Valparaíso Photo Album

La Serena and Pisco Elqui, Chile (6 nights)

Continuing our journey up through Chile, we explored the colonial city of La Serena, the capital of the Coquimbo region. However, our favourite part by far, was journeying out into the Elqui Valley to the small town of Pisco Elqui. Famous for it’s Pisco vineyards, distilleries and hot desert landscapes. Yet, it was the unspoilt night skies that won us over!

La Serena and Pisco Elqui Photo Album

Santiago, Chile (8 nights)

Situated in a valley framed by the Andes Mountain range, Chile’s capital, Santiago, is a beautifully diverse city, rich in character, architecture and stunning panoramas. We spent our days wandering the streets, immersed in culture and good food, and our evenings watching the breath-taking sunsets from atop some of Santiago’s numerous hills.

Santiago Photo Album

Rapa Nui (Easter Island), Chile (7 nights)

Rapa Nui, also known as Easter Island, is the most remote inhabited island in the world and home to the famous Moai statues. We spent an amazing week exploring many of it’s famous sites (in the rain), scuba diving, snorkelling with turtles and adventuring into it’s volcanic cave systems.

Rapa Nui Photo Album

San Pedro de Atacama and the Atacama Desert, Chile (5 nights)

San Pedro de Atacama and the Atacama Desert, high in the Andes Mountains, is famed for it’s surreal alien-esque landscapes, unlike anywhere else on Earth. We where not disappointed! Over 4 jampacked days, we explored the area’s most famous locations, including the desert, canyons, lakes and mountains. We stood amidst the bubbling, exploding geyser fields in temperatures of -8.5°C, and floated in lakes so salty our skin felt like it was burning. We watched the sunset across the breathtakingly stunning Moon Valley, stargazed under one of the cleanest skies we’ve ever seen, and watched the sunrise from a hot air balloon above the desert mountain ranges.

San Pedro de Atacama Photo Album

Bolivia – 6 weeks

Known mostly as home to the world’s largest salt flats, Bolivia has an abundance of culture and breath-taking landscapes. After spending an extra month in Argentina and Chile than originally planned, we made the tough decision to cut several destinations and multiday hikes from Bolivia. Nonetheless, we are very happy with our final 6 week Bolivian itinerary, which still allowed us several unforgettable adventures.

Our Route Through Bolivia:

30th April – June 11th
42 days, exactly 6 weeks

Starting in Bolivia’s most southwestern corner, we crossed the border from one stunning destination to another. From the barren yet beautiful Atacama desert in Chile, to the colourful, llama strewn Fauna Andina Eduardo Avaroa National Reserve in Bolivia. Then, after spending 2 weeks attending Spanish school (and being very unwell) in Sucre, we continued our journey northwards up to the golden shores of Lake Titicaca, via one of our favourite South American cities, La Paz.

Our Final Route:

• The Fauna Andina Eduardo Avaroa National Reserve – 2 nights
• Uyuni – 1 night
• Sucre – 14 nights
• Samaipata – 5 nights
• Santa Cruz de la Sierra – 6 nights
• La Paz – 6 nights
• Huayna Potosí Hike – 2 nights
• La Paz – 1 night
• Copacabana, Lake Titicaca – 4 nights

In total we spent a brief 41 nights in Bolivia, and to stick to such a tight timeline, we treated ourselves to one (cheap) inflight:

• Santa Cruz de la Sierra to La Paz

Uyuni, The Uyuni Salt Flats and the Eduardo Avaroa Andean Fauna National Reserve (3 nights)

Words fail to describe just how beautiful the Eduardo Avaroa Andean Fauna National Reserve is, even our photos don’t do it justice! Though the odds were against us, our guide only spoke Spanish, I was recovering from a chest infection and Aiden started falling ill on the first morning, all under the relentless sun and unforgiving altitudes which once had me practicing my now-rusty paramedic skills, we spent 3 unforgettable days exploring these unique landscapes.

Uyuni Salt Flats and the Eduardo Avaroa Andean Fauna National Reserve Photo Album

Sucre (14 nights)

Oh the best-laid plans…. After just 3 days of Spanish school, Aiden went from sick to worse. As such we managed very little exploring of Bolivia’s beautiful capital, Sucre. Nestled in the southern highlands of Bolivia, Sucre boasts some stunning architecture, museums, a ‘dinosaur dance floor’, and many hiking trails in the surrounding countryside.

Sucre Photo Album

Samaipata (5 nights)

Nestled in the foothills of the Bolivian Andes, is the small colonial town of Samaipata. With it’s pre-Incan fortress, animal refuge, and gateway to the Amboró National Park; teeming with wildlife, trekking trails, waterfalls, cloud forests and giant ferns, there is much to keep you occupied. You can also spend your days wandering around the town, enjoying its many coffee shops or just relaxing in hammocks, just as the name ‘Samaipata’ (‘the heights of rest’ in Incan) suggests.

Samaipata Photo Album

Santa Cruz de la Sierra (6 nights)

Though Bolivia’s largest city, Santa Cruz, didn’t exactly charm us, we managed to keep ourselves busy exploring it’s plaza and many green spaces. For those with the time and budget (sadly not us), you can spend your days exploring the local sand dunes, jaguar reserves and on a safari in the local national park.

Santa Cruz de la Sierra Photo Album

La Paz and Huayna Potosí (9 nights)

The world’s highest city, La Paz, really stole our hearts, as one of our favourite cities in South America. When we weren’t suffering from altitude sickness, we were cycling Death Road, altitude hiking Pico Austria and attempting to summit Huayna Potosí. We also enjoyed La Paz’s many delicious eateries, riding its teleféricos, and exploring its unusual witches market.

La Paz Photo Album

Copacabana, Lake Titicaca (4 nights)

Though a very touristic town, we enjoyed our stay on the world’s highest navigational lake. Besides soaking up the sunshine and recovering from our Potosi trek, we enjoyed hiking up Copacabana’s hills and spending a day exploring the beautiful Isla del Sol.

Copacabana, Lake Titicaca Photo Album

Peru – 2 months

It’s fair to say we were Very excited to visit Peru! Boasting not only Machu Picchu, the Amazon rainforest and many multiday hikes in the Andes mountains, Peru has a plethora of world heritage sites and beautiful colonial cities. If time and money had allowed, we could have easily created an itinerary lasting our entire 90 day visas. But alas, we instead attempted to cram as much sightseeing, adventuring and eating as possible into just 2 months.

Our Route Through Peru:

11th June – 4th August
Just shy of 2 months at 54 days

Continuing our adventure northwards, we crossed the Bolivian-Peruvian border on Lake Titicaca, and headed west to see the famous white city of Arequipa; before heading north again onto Cusco. Using Cusco as a base, we did many hikes and tours including the 5 day Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu. After exploring most of the entire width of southern Peru, we travelled onto the west coast, and slowly worked our way up to Ecuador, hugging Peru’s coastline.

En route, we had planned an epic multiday hike from Huaraz, listed by National Geographic as one of the ‘best hikes in the world. However, the Peruvian protests finally caught up with us and our hike was cancelled. We were gutted, especially so as we’d already cut several multiday hikes from Peru to regain time.

Our Final Route:

• Puno – 2 nights
• Arequipa and Colca Canyon – 5 nights
• Cusco – 8 nights
• Machu Picchu – 5-Day Salkantay Trek
• Cusco – 5 nights
• Huacachina – 2 nights
• Lima – 7 nights
• Huaraz – 10 nights
• Trujillo – 3 nights
• Máncora – 4 nights

Including multiple overnight and whole day coaches, we spent just shy of 2 months in Peru, 54 days to be exact. Also, with shorter distances between destinations, we didn’t take any flights.

Puno (2 nights)

Though just a fleeting visit to Peru’s ‘folkloric capital’ on the shore’s of Lake Titicaca, we filled our 2 days with as much of Puno as we could. From kayaking out to it’s unique floating islands, climbing 700+ steps to the Mirador Condor, to watching the colourful costumed dancers of a traditional street parade; It was a wonderful welcome to Peru.

Puno Photo Album

Arequipa and Colca Canyon (5 nights)

Peru’s beautiful white city, Arequipa, named for it’s volcanic white stone architecture, has earnt a small place in our hearts. Besides the stunning historic centre and mountainous backdrop, the city is full of cafes, restaurants and scenic look outs. When we weren’t exploring the local cuisine or making our own boutique chocolates, we were hiking one of the world’s deepest valleys, Colca Canyon.

Arequipa and Colca Canyon Photo Album

Cusco (13 nights)

Upon arriving in Cusco, once the capital of the Incan empire, we found the city bustling with their winter solstice festivities. Besides enjoying the celebrations, we opted into less well-known tours, such as the 7 Lakes hike, in an attempt to avoid the crowds bound for the Sacred Valley and Rainbow Mountains. After 10 days, we’d still barely scratched the surface of all Cusco and the surrounding valleys have to offer. Hopefully, one day, we’ll come back and explore the rest.

Cusco Photo Album

Machu Picchu and The Salkantay Trek – (4 nights)

It’s fair to say we’ve hiked a lot over these past 9 months, yet the Salkantay Trek was honestly one of the hardest and most rewarding. With the temperature changes, altitudes, and an unfortunate bout of travellers tummy, I was incredibly close to giving up and asking for a mule to take me to the end. Yet we persisted and were rewarded with a beautiful journey up mountains, past glaciers and through jungles. We watched the sun, set and then rise again, over Machu Picchu from our camp on an overlooking mountain. And of course we explored the breathtakingly beautiful wonder of the world itself.

Machu Picchu and The Salkantay Trek Photo Album

Huacachina (2 nights)

Though small and incredibly touristy, we loved Peru’s little oasis Huacachina. Located on the edge of South America’s largest sand dunes, we had an adventurous day exploring the dunes and attempting to sand board. For our second and last day, we had planned on visiting the Ballestas Islands and Paracas National Park. However, due to an influx of bird flu, we opted instead to do a double winery tour. In which we ended up quite squiffy as we were very generously given 21 samples of wine and Pisco each between the 2 distilleries.

Huacachina Photo Album

Lima (7 nights)

Peru’s capital Lima, is quite frankly massive! However, hidden amongst the skyscrapers are some beautiful neighbourhoods, a stunning park-lined coast and many culinary delights, which have earnt Lima the title of one of the culinary capital cities of the world. Finding the local eco-park closed, the sea too cold and choppy to surf or swim with the sealions, and the weather grey, overcast and generally a little dismal, we spent our days exploring the city, and it’s numerous cafes and eateries.

Lima Photo Album

Huaraz (10 nights)

Though the city of Huaraz itself is nothing special, it borders the dramatic snow-capped Cordillera Blanca mountain range. Making it a hiking mecca! We’d planned on hiking the Santa Cruz trail, named by National Geographic as one of the best hikes in the world, yet alas, the Peruvian protests finally caught up with us and our hike was cancelled. Instead of one big hike, we settled for many day-hikes and explored the many beautiful lakes the area has to offer.

Huaraz Photo Album

Trujillo (3 nights)

Once home to the Moche and Chimu cultures, Peru’s 3rd most populous city, Trujillo, boasts a colourful historic city centre, an abundance of ancient ruins, beaches and ceviche restaurants. Plus the sites are far from busy, being off the beaten track for most tourists.

Trujillo Photo Album

Máncora (4 nights)

Máncora, located at the very top of Peru’s coastline, is a small resort town, ideal for surfing, whale watching, swimming with turtles and spending your days just relaxing on the beach. It was a wonderfully peaceful end to our busy Peruvian itinerary.

Máncora Photo Album

Ecuador and the Galápagos Islands – 1 month

Though often just a pitstop for travellers heading onto the Galapagos Islands, Ecuador may be small in size, but is big in beauty, adventure and biodiversity. Sadly, having fallen for a steal of a deal on a luxury Galapagos cruise, we had to drastically re-budget the remainder of our trip, starting with culling several destinations in Ecuador.

As such, we ended up not visiting the Ecuadorian coast and it’s allegedly stunning, wildlife rich beaches; remaining inland instead, in order to visit the ‘main’ destinations. Such a drastic revision to our itinerary was a bitter pill to swallow, but the Galapagos was honestly one of the most incredible experiences of our lives, and we would hands down make the same decision again.

Our Route Through Ecuador:

4th August – 3rd September
31 days, exactly 1 month

Crossing the border from Peru, we headed directly to Cuenca on the edge of central Ecuador, before continuing onto Ecuador’s adventure capital Baños. We then carried on northwards to Quito, where we flew out to the Galapagos Islands, for an amazing 5 night luxury cruise. Once back on the mainland we returned to explore Quito, before spending a few final, wonderful days in Mindo Valley.

Our Final Route:

• Cuenca – 3 nights
• Baños & an Amazon Jungle tour from Puyo – 7 nights
• Quito – 2 nights
• The Galapagos Islands – 5 nights
• Quito – 7 nights
• Mindo – 5 nights

We spent just 31 days in Ecuador, and due to its size, besides flying to the Galapagos, we only coached.

Cuenca (3 nights)

Though just a quick visit, we fell in love with this charming riverside city. Located in the Andes mountain range of southern Ecuador, Cuenca boasts many great cafes and eateries, one of the most beautiful cathedrals in all of South America, and for those with transport, a beautiful national park with many hiking trails.

Cuenca Photo Album

Baños (7 nights)

Though it rained almost all day everyday, for our entire week stay, when we managed to get out and explore, we found Baños to be a hub of adventurous activities. Whether you’re up for cycling the road of many waterfalls, white-water rafting, canyoning, ziplining, exploring the Amazon Rainforest, or simply relaxing in one of the many thermal spas, Baños has something for everyone.

Baños Photo Album

The Galápagos Islands (5 nights)

Truly…speechless.

Galapagos Photo Album

Quito (7 nights)

Quito had so much promise. We’d planned to spend our days hiking Quilotoa; a lake filled volcanic crater, the Pichincha volcano trail from the top of the teleferico, and attempting to climb Cotopaxi, with us finally recovering in some local hot springs. Yet with Cotopaxi on yellow alert, the teleferico broken and both the hot springs and other hikes not realistically doable without our own transportation, we had to settle for spending our days exploring the city, it’s many parks, churches, chocolatiers and coffee shops. We hope to return one day to revisit the Galapagos, and in doing so, rectify of all of these missed opportunities.

Quito Photo Album

Mindo (5 nights)

Mindo is a small, peaceful village nestled in the Andes Mountain range of northern Ecuador. We spent our days hiking, learning about and sampling a lot of coffee and chocolate, and generally just admiring the colourful local wildlife of which there was an abundance.

Mindo Photo Album

Colombia – 2 months

The final leg of our epic, 12 month exploration of South America saw us spending 2 months in Colombia. Once labelled one of the most dangerous countries in the world, Colombia is no longer a war-torn country lorded over by gangs and drug lords. In fact, Colombia has shed it’s dark history and reputation, becoming the most popular South American country to visit.

Our Route Through Colombia:

3rd September – 1st November
59 days, just shy of 2 months

After 11 months on the road, it really shouldn’t come as a surprise that we’ve once again had to re-plan much of our initial itinerary. With ‘increased volcanic activity’ closing several National Parks, coach routes no longer existing, and guided multiday hikes costing over triple the previous year’s prices (when we were doing our research), our journey through Colombia changed to focus mainly on the towns in the south, and the Caribbean beaches of the north.

Starting in the south, we explored Colombia’s capital in the clouds, Bogota, and the beautiful valley towns of Salento and Jardin. We then travelled onto Colombia’s second largest city, Medellin, and several other local towns, before heading north. Once in northern Colombia, we first visited the colonial seaside town of Cartagena, and Colombia’s oldest city, Santa Marta. Using Santa Marta as a base, we visited the delightful village in the mountains Minca, Palomino on the coast, and our last National Park, Parque Nacional Natural Tayrona, often referred to as Columbia’s Caribbean paradise. Lastly, with a friend no longer visiting, we made some last minute amendments to our itinerary, opting to visit the Caribbean island of San Andrès, in place of hiking the 5 day trek to the Lost City, Ciudad Perdida.

Our Final Route:

• Bogotá – 5 nights
• Salento – 4 nights
• Jardin – 3 nights
• Medellin – 5 nights
• Guatapé – 3 nights
• San Gil and Barichara – 5 nights
• Bucaramanga – 1 night
• Cartagena – 4 nights
• Isla Grande, Islas del Rosario – 3 nights
• Cartagena – 1 night
• Santa Marta and Tayrona National Park – 6 nights
• Minca – 5 nights
• Palomino – 4 nights
• Santa Marta – 3 nights
• San Andrès – 5 nights
• Santa Marta – 2 nights (30-1st November)

Having coached most of South America when possible, you might be a little surprised to know we treated ourselves to an internal flight in place of a 17 hour coach. The main reason being Julia’s horrific travel sickness on the very windy Colombian roads. As such, we took 3 flights whilst in Colombia:

• Bucaramanga to Cartagena
• Santa Marta to San Andrès
• San Andrès to Santa Marta

Bogotá – 5 nights

Bogotá, Colombia’s capital, is a sprawling metropolis. Yet interspersed between the many skyscrapers is a plethora of culture, architecture and gorgeous green spaces in which to relax.

Bogotá Photo Album

Salento – 4 nights

The tiny town of Salento is apparently one of the most popular tourist destinations in the whole of Colombia, and it’s not hard to see why! Though a little touristy, Salento is full of beautiful, colonial buildings and is in close proximity to many coffee farms, Cocora Valley where the iconic palm trees grow, and the snow-capped peaks of Los Nevados National Natural Park (when it’s not on high volcano alert!).

Salento Photo Album

Jardin – 3 nights

With a backdrop of lush jungle covered hills, we found the sleepy, yet charming little town of Jardin in northwest Colombia to be bursting with colour and character.

Jardin Photo Album

Medellin – 5 nights

Once a no-go zone with a dark and violent past, Colombia’s infamous city of Medellin has successfully rebuilt and transformed into a vibrant, cultural metropolis. Surrounded by lush forest-covered hills; there’s plenty of green spaces to hike or relax, a plethora of cafes and restaurants, and of course an abundance of history round every corner.

Medellin Photo Album

Guatapé – 3 nights

Guatapé is easily one of the most colourful town’s we’ve ever visited. Known mostly for the famous giant granite rock, Piedra del Peñol, the picturesque town itself is also well worth a visit.

Guatapé Photo Album

San Gil and Barichara – 5 nights

San Gil, Colombia’s ‘adventure capital’, in our opinion, is a small and somewhat uninspiring town north of Bogata. What makes it a great travel destination is the hikes and waterfalls in the surrounding, jungle-covered hills, along with its proximity to Barichara. In stark contrast to San Gil, Barichara is one of the most beautiful towns we have ever visited.

San Gil and Barichara Photo Album

Cartagena – 4 nights

The port city of Cartagena on Colombia’s north coast, has a beautiful, albeit touristy, old town. Located within the impressive limestone walls, we spent our days exploring the colourful, cobblestoned streets, enjoying the Caribbean sunshine on the local beach, and escaping the heat in some of the many cafes.

Cartagena Photo Album

Rosario Islands – 3 nights

Just 35Km from the shores of Cartagena, is an archipelago of Caribbean-like islands, the Rosario Islands. Surrounded by coral reefs and an abundance of aquatic life hidden in the warm turquoise waters, this national park is perfect for many activities such as snorkelling, scuba diving, kayaking and swimming.

The Rosario Islands Photo Album

Tayrona National Park

Tayrona is Colombia’s most famous and popular national park, and it’s easy to see why. Following a 2 hour hike through the lush, monkey filled tropical forest, there’s a selection of beautiful beaches to relax the day away, and even spend the night on, in a comfy hammock or tent.

Tayrona National Park Photo Album

Minca – 5 nights

It may have rained on-and-off all day, every day, but we still fell in love with Minca. Situated in the Sierra Nevada mountains just outside of Santa Marta, this tiny jungle surrounded village has a plethora of hiking trails, waterfalls, and even a delightful coffee and chocolate farm to explore.

Minca Photo Album

Palomino – 4 nights

Palomino is a small beach town on Colombia’s Caribbean coast. Finding the sea unsafe to swim in (we did attempt it once), and the town little more than a main high street, we blissfully spent our days relaxing in the beautiful garden pool at our hostel.

Palomino Photo Album

Santa Marta – 6 nights

Our final city stop, Santa Marta, also lies on Colombia’s Caribbean coast. With a bustling historic city centre, and in close proximity to many local beaches, Minca, Tayrona National Natural Park, the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta mountains and the Lost City, Santa Marta has something for everybody.

Santa Marta Photo Album

San Andrès – 5 nights

San Andrès is a small Colombian island in the Caribbean, known for it’s white sand beaches and turquoise waters. We spent our days enjoying the many beaches, seafood restaurants, and getting to know the local wildlife, including a jellyfish or 2.

San Andrès Photo Album

Fly Home – November 1st